Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
Based on the Regency Society James Gray Collection
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WEST STREET

West Street (Brighton) (Central)

between Russell Road and Regency Road

Neighbourhood:
Central Brighton
c1925
2020

James Gray: A group of children in the playground of St Paul’s School, about 1925. The school was hidden away behind the Church. Opened in 1850, it was demolished in the 1960s. jgc_07_019

2020: The site of St Paul’s School in West Street is now occupied by a variety of modern buildings. St Paul’s School is now located in St Nicholas Road. (Photographer: Chris Nichols)

c1855
2019

James Gray: Showing the small shops and cottages, Nos 15 – 18 on the west side and (far right) the large house occupied by A Sinclair, Surgeon Dentist. However, the focal point is St Paul’s Church, (RC Carpenter, 1846/1848) with its temporary wooden cap. The present lantern of timber and lead replaced this in 1875. A print from the waxed paper negative owned by Philippe Garner. jgc_07_012

2019: Carpenter’s church survives intact amidst the redevelopment of West Street. (Photographer: Chris Nichols)

1870
1859
1931-32
2019

James Gray: Here is an [un]usual view of the church, without its steeple. It was erected in 1848 and it was intended to complete the tower with a stone spire. It was feared that the additional weight would make the tower unsafe, so the spire was never added. Instead, a temporary cap, here shown, was provided, until the erection of the present wooden steeple in 1875. jgc_07_014

James Gray: This is a copy of a very old photograph, the original of which was taken by Edward Fox in 1859. St Paul’s Church had then been built only a few years. No 20 above the church was then occupied as a private house. jgc_07_044

James Gray: The central section, in its early stages of reconstruction. The frontage of the Ocean Insurance Company’s building at No 20 has been set back, and Nos 21-24 demolished. The forecourt of St Paul’s Church and adjoining property to the south has yet to be dealt with.

Note the narrowness of the street. Between the Church and the derelict tobacconist’s shop can be seen the narrow entrance to Chuters Gardens, yet another of the many courts which early Brighton builders delighted to conceal behind main thoroughfares. Here two tiny cottages were crowded into a very small space. jgc_07_084

2019: The three James Gray images of St Paul’s Church and surrounding area span more than seventy years. Ninety years on, the church is still a prominent feature of West Street. See also captions for other images of St Paul’s on this page. (Photographer: Chris Nichols)

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1860s
2019

James Gray: This photograph is one of the oldest original photographs of West Street in my entire collection. It must date from the late 1860s and is remarkably clear for this age. The other [jgc_07_018 below] is of a few years later, when the present lead and timber lantern had replaced the temporary wooden cap. jgc_07_017

2019: See caption for jgc_07_012 above. (Photographer: Chris Nichols)

1870
2019

James Gray: This photograph is taken a little later than the previous one [jgc_07_017 above], when the present lead and timber lantern had replaced the temporary wooden one. jgc_07_018

2019:  See caption for jgc_07_012 above. (Photographer: Chris Nichols)

1974
1992
2019

James Gray: At the time I had this photograph taken, on 13 March 1974, it was rumoured that the derelict Odeon Cinema (left) and the empty Sports Stadium site (a car park) would be used for the erection of a new large hotel. Now as I write nearly ten years later, nothing happened as the scene is exactly the same. jgc_07_025

James Gray: This photograph of the newly opened Oak Hotel taken in January 1992 is included purely for comparison and shows redevelopment taking place on the Odeon Cinema site. jgc_07_123

2019: St Paul’s Church is still very much in evidence in all three images of the western side of West Street. The former site of the sports stadium and Odeon cinema is now occupied by a Travelodge, an Italian restaurant and the offices of a finance company. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1987
2019

James Gray: A photograph, taken on 15 March 1987, showing old houses, Nos 70-74, on the east side of the street, empty and awaiting demolition. They have since been removed. Incised in the high wall of No 70 were the words WHITE’S LIBRARY AND CARVING WORKS, a link with the Brighton of a century or more ago.

Jabez White established his wood carver’s business here in the 1850s, later taking on bookselling and stationery, and the house remained in occupation of the White family until the days of the Great War. In the gap between Nos 72 and 73 was a narrow passage that gave access to the three Willow Cottages, though the entrance had long been barred, following their removal in 1935. jgc_07_038

2019: All of the buildings in the James Gray image have gone and there are brand new buildings currently occupying the same spot on the eastern side of West Street. The Fogo de Chao Brazilian Steakhouse is the name of the restaurant and there are apartments above and to the side of this establishment. The apartment complex is called Avalon and the black metal gate in the 2019 image is called Avalon Gate and was created by Sussex Artist Christian Funnell. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1882
1932
2019

James Gray: A view of the same area some years later, showing William Carden’s greengrocers shop, No 17 and next door, William Eves, the shoemakers shop. No 20 had by this time been rebuilt and was occupied as a pianoforte gallery. jgc_07_043

James Gray: The lower central section awaits the housebreakers. The road has already been widened between St Paul’s Church and No 25, and from No 34 onwards. Above Little Russell Street, Nos 14-16 have been removed. This site was vacant for some years until the Odeon Cinema was built on it. At the side of the photograph in the foreground, is the entrance to West Street Cottages, last of the remaining Courts on this side of West Street. By now the buses have commenced to use the street. jgc_07_094

2019: jgc_07_043 and jgc_07_044 above show two very early images from almost the same spot on West Street. St Paul’s Church still stands proudly, although all the other buildings in the earlier images are long gone. The new building occupying the space south of St Paul’s is occupied by One Family, a finance company. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1880s
2019

James Gray: Close-up of William Eves’s shop, 18 West Street, with old Mr and Mrs Eves in the doorway. He was the churchwarden of St Paul’s for more than 50 years and lived in this house for about that period. This was copied from a very ancient photograph, which accounts for the blemishes. jgc_07_045

2019: The space where the old cottages stood is now occupied by a complex of apartments called Avalon. The metal gate in the 2019 image was created by Sussex artist Christian Funnell.  (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1960
1898
c1910
1892-93
2019

James Gray: This photograph shows the street, which is familiar to most present Brightonians, except for the disappearance of the Ice Stadium and the George Inn (far left). These were removed in 1966 and 1963 respectively. Photograph taken about 1960. jgc_07_048

James Gray: West Street is one of the historical streets of Brighton and dates at least from the 16th century. Its name indicates the western boundary of the old town. About 150 years ago, when it was purely residential, it had some of the finest houses in Brighton of which only No 77 now remains. Its condition deteriorated with the years as private dwellings gave way to shops of a nature designed to attract the custom of the many trippers making their way from the Station to the sea front. This photograph shows West Street in 1898. No traffic problems in those days! jgc_07_059

James Gray: Another view of old West Street about 1910. Slightly more traffic about, but no change in the appearance or character of the street. Animated photography, evidently early motion pictures, were on show in the building later known as Sherry’s. Brighton Corporation decided to widen West Street, by setting back the west side, in 1926. A start was made in the following year at the north west corner of the street. jgc_07_061

James Gray: This photograph of West Street, looking north from Little Russell Street, appears to have been taken about 1892-3 as such of the tradesmen whose names are legible are listed in the Brighton Directories of this period. The vehicle seen with a man standing at the rear may have been a small public convenience. Otherwise there is little of note, the street being drab and dirty. The next two photographs provide an interesting contrast. jgc_07_087

2019: The three James Gray images spanning some 70 years record an evolving street scene but nothing like the changes that have taken place over the last 60 years. Although the east (right) side of West Street remans recognisable, the west side has changed beyond recognition  although the tower of St Paul’s remains intact and is just visible in the 2019 image. West Street comes to life at night and at weekends when the pubs and clubs are very busy. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1935
2019

James Gray: It would be no exaggeration to say that not one Brightonian in a hundred knew that these cottages existed or where they were to be found. Between 72 and 73 West Street is a narrow passageway only three feet wide, at the far end of which, behind the houses of West Street, stood Willow Cottages from the middle of the last century until 1935. Early Brighton builders had a passion for building little courts, hidden away behind other houses, of which this was a good example. There were three cottages, the other being out of view on the right. Date of photograph, January 1935. Additional Information: Note the swing and sash windows common at that time in these small cottages. jgc_07_049

2019:  See caption for jgc_07_045 above. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

Unknown
2019

James Gray: Old West Street showing the narrow entrance to Chuters Gardens. jgc_07_060

2019: The entrance porch to St Paul’s church looks similar in both photographs but the red external door must be a later edition as it is not in the early image. The building next to the entrance has gone, possibly when the road was widened. The space alongside the porch is now occupied by the entrance area to the One Family finance company. The bicycle leaning on the railings is part of the Brighton bike share scheme which was started in 2017. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1925
2019

 

James Gray: Old houses of varying age, adjoining Little Russell Street. This was poor class property given over to cheap shops and eating-in houses designed to catch the eyes of trippers and formed part of the extensive Stoll site purchased by the Corporation in 1929. The whole area down to the George Hotel was cleared in 1932 and the extent of this clearance can be gauged by the photographs overleaf [jgc_07_032 and 033 on the West Street (Brighton) (South) A page and jgc_07_034 on the West Street (Brighton) (South) page]. jgc_07_029

2019: The west side of West Street has changed dramatically since 1925 although St Paul’s church remains. The current buildings seen in the 2019 image from south to north are the Odeon cinema complex, a Travelodge and a red-brick office building housing the registered offices of the Family Assurance Friendly Society Ltd. Although there are few vehicles or pedestrians in the later image, West Street is usually a very busy thoroughfare. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1925
2019

James Gray: Like those on the previous page, these three photographs [see also jgc_07_036 on the North Street (Brighton (1) page and 037 on this page] show West Street as it was some 30 years ago. Taken in 1925 by the late Mr Harold Clunn, a trenchant critic of Brighton as it then was, they were intended by him to draw attention to parts of the town he loved so well, which were in need of improvement. jgc_07_035

2019: Almost 100 years separates these two images and, other than the tower of St Paul’s Church, little on the James Gray image remains. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1910
2020

James Gray: St Paul’s Vicarage, 21 West Street in 1910. This was a single house, the main entrance being in the centre, and the lower door, the staff entrance. It was an eighteenth century house in flint and brick and was demolished in 1932 in the course of street widening. jgc_07_069

2020: 21 West Street is now home to a pub called The Bright Helm, part of the J D Wetherspoon chain.

The building  in which it resides was designed by H E Mendelsohn (1887-1953), the German Jewish architect who fled from the Third Reich to England in 1933 and pioneered Art Deco and Streamline Moderne architecture. It was built in 1938 and known as National House. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)
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1947
1966

James Gray: After the demolition of West Street Tabernacle early in 1966, the Vicarage of St Paul’s Church was revealed to the public gaze for the first time since it was built in the mid 1930s. On the left note the roof of St Paul’s School which has since been demolished. jgc_07_086

James Gray: The Baptist Tabernacle in 1947. This was erected in 1834 and demolished in 1965. jgc_07_092

c1873
c1873
2019

James Gray: The two photographs are of the interior of the then well patronised St Paul’s Church in West Street. They were taken in 1873, or thereabouts, when the church was only 25 years old. jgc_07_046 and jgc_07_047

2019: St Paul’s was opened in 1848 and was the fourth of six churches in Brighton to have been built on the instruction of Reverend Henry Michell Wagner (1792-1870) who was Vicar of Brighton from 1824 until his death. It is the only one of the six churches which remains in Anglican use and only one of two which remain standing, the other being St John the Evangelist’s on Carlton Hill now home to the Greek Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity. Services are held daily at St Paul’s which is Grade II listed. The magnificent stained glass windows were designed by A W N Pugin (1812-1852), renowned Gothic revival architect and designer. The altar and surrounding area have been modified since the James Gray images were taken but the remaining candlesticks look identical. The corona light above the altar in one of the nineteenth century images is no longer in the church. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

 

1930
2019

James Gray: This photograph shows the cloister of St Paul’s Church, leading from West Street through to Russell Place which still exists, but the buildings seen in the others [jgc_07_051 on the West Street (Brighton) (South) A page and jgc_07_053 on the West Street (Brighton) (North) page] have long since disappeared. jgc_07_052

2019: The cloister still remains. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1935
Unknown
1960
1960

James Gray: The street decorated in May 1935, for the George Vth Jubilee Celebrations. All the buildings on the left below Cranbourne Street had been built in the previous four years. jgc_07_085

James Gray: Three photographs [jgc_07_102 and 103 on the West Street Brighton South (A) page and jgc_07_104] of the lower end of this famous street, with little to commend them or even write about. The dates are unknown and even the periods are difficult to determine. These two photographs [this and jgc_07_103] could date from either before or after the Second World War – car enthusiasts could probably decide by looking at the cars. Obviously there were no particular parking problems at these times. jgc_07_104

James Gray: Although this photograph was taken as comparatively recently as 1960 there have been many demolitions in this lower half of West Street. At the left there is a large gap in the buildings just below the old G.P.O Garage, while further down the tall Sherry’s edifice has lost two of its storeys. The bottleneck at the bottom of the street has gone and the street is now of uniform width. Other casualties are the Sports Stadium and the Odeon Cinema which were at the right though hardly visible in the photograph. Traffic was less of a problem than it is today. jgc_07_122

James Gray: These photographs, [jgc_07_088 and jgc_07_089] showing the top of West Street east side, were taken about 1960. The Eight Bells public house, although not one of Brighton’s oldest Inns, had been here for more than a century, but is now gone. The tall building facing into West Street was the White Lion Hotel, the ground floor being occupied by Barclays Bank. It had been reconstructed and set back in 1874, the date being inscribed on the pediment. The Bank vacated their offices in 1957 but the building remained for another twenty years, being demolished in 1977 and replaced by the present Boots store. jgc_07_089

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1930
2021

James Gray: 1 December 1930 5/6. One of the first large buildings erected in the newly widened West Street was Bostel House, at the corner of Cranbourne Street. These six snapshot photographs show the work in progress during 1930 and 1931. jgc_07_081

2021: No 37 West Street, on the southern corner of Cranbourne Street, is Bostel House comprising recently refurbished offices to rent above with retail units at street level currently occupied by Tortilla serving Mexican food. The building is named after sanitary engineer and surveyor Daniel Thomas Bostel (1836-1916), whose Bostel Bros business was at 18-19 Duke Street. Note:  In 1879 Bostel registered a design for a water closet basin and trap. The invention of the water closet has often, incorrectly, been attributed to Walter Crapper but D T Bostel was the well-documented ‘perfector of the wash-out wc’ and considered to be an early nineteenth century pioneer in this field. (Photographer: Denise Taylor)

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1931
2021

James Gray: Nos 32-34 West Street shortly before their demolition. On the vacant site beyond, the erection of Bostel House has been commenced and, during the next four years, imposing Insurance Companies buildings were completed, completely changing the character of the street. Manville House, No 34, was for many years occupied as a brewer’s store. Note the narrow entrance to Bunker’s Hill, a warren of ten very ancient cottages. jgc_07_083

2021: Phoenix Building, also known as Phoenix House 32 West Street, was built in the mid 1930s as part of the West Street widening scheme for the Phoenix Assurance Company and has housed several other insurance companies, including Legal & General, Equity & Law and the Woolwich Equitable Building Society. Atlas Chambers is the middle block at No 33 and was built for the Atlas Assurance Company. It was designed by Clayton & Black in a classical style of ‘enervating’ office blocks. No 34 has retail on the ground floor (recruitment agents, Office Angels) and above is let out as offices. Further on in the same block is Bostel House at No 37 on the corner of Cranbourne Street looking towards the Clock Tower. See also jgc_07_081. (Photographer: Denise Taylor)

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Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
This website has been prepared by the Regency Society of Brighton and Hove. All historic maps are provided with kind permission of the National Library of Scotland (https://www.nls.uk/) regencysociety.org

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