Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
Based on the Regency Society James Gray Collection
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KINGS ESPLANADE, HOVE

King's Esplanade

Neighbourhood:
Hove Seafront
c 1914
2018

James Gray: The beach in front of the empty site of Mills Terrace, after the initial widening of the front in 1909. Period of the photograph, about 1914. jgc_12_031

2018: The second of six images (in chronological order, jgc_12_039, 031, 040, 053, 044 and 041) showing the gradual development of this part of Hove beach. Beyond the beached sailing boat in the James Gray picture, there is no trace of  the private gardens (see jgc_12_039) which formerly ran from Mills’ Terrace to the shoreline here.

Courtenay Gate, the block of luxury flats in the foreground of the 2018 image, was built in 1934. The distinctive red brick buildings of King’s Gardens and the twin towers of King’s House, built in the 1870s at the junction of Grand Avenue and Kingsway, can be seen in the distance in both images. The grey dome in the far west of the modern image was a temporary structure, part of the 2018 Brighton Festival.  (Photographer: David Sears)
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1900s
2018

James Gray: At the time of this photograph, early in the present century, there was no direct access along the beach, between the promenade opposite Fourth Avenue and the newly constructed Kings Esplanade commencing at Medina Terrace. This was because the long gardens of the houses of Mills Terrace extended almost to high water mark. jgc_12_039

2018: This is the earliest of 6 images (in chronological order, jgc_12_039, 031, 040, 053, 044 and 041) of a small section of Hove beach. The first development here was in the late 1820s when James Mills built a terrace of ten houses between Hove beach and the old road to Shoreham.

In the James Gray image, the walls enclosing the long private gardens can be seen extending right down to the shoreline. Directly in front of them, set in the shingle, are two capstans used to winch boats up the beach. Mills Terrace was demolished in 1899 and the site remained empty until the Courtenay Gate apartment block, with its distinctive white rendering at street to first floor level, was built in 1934. The 2018 picture is taken from the area jutting out directly south of Medina Terrace, known from at least the 1880s as The Quarter Deck because it makes such an excellent  viewing spot. In the foreground is the red-brick apartment block Flag Court, built in 1958. The twin towers of King’s House, built in the 1870s at the junction of Grand Avenue and Kingsway, can be seen in both images. The grey dome in the distance in the 2018 picture was temporary, part of the 2018 Brighton Festival. (Photographer: David Sears)
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pre 1918
2018

James Gray: The junction was effected in 1909, at a cost of £5,000, by means of setting back the gardens. Additional Information: Postcard sent 28.3.1918 Brighton from Charles E Hinton (Spr.77924) RE 8th Division Sig. Co. France, who was home on leave. Sent to Spr. F. G. Mayne 3 West St. Reigate, Surrey.  jgc_12_040

2018: This the third of six images (in chronological order, jgc_12_039, 031, 040, 053, 044 and 041) showing the development of Hove beach and the building of Hove Esplanade.

The first section, from the boundary with Brighton to Medina Terrace, began in 1884 and was finished in 1888. The Medina Esplanade extension took the road 956 feet further west, incorporating the area that jutted out over the beach and was known as The Quarter Deck, shown in both these images (see also jgc_12_039). The yellow-brick King’s House, built in the 1870s at the junction of Grand Avenue and Kingsway, and some of the decorative pillars along the front can also be seen in both pictures. (Photographer: David Sears)
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c1930
2018

James Gray: Erosion by the sea damaged the unprotected promenade, so in 1924/5, the present massive sea wall was constructed. This photograph, of 1930 vintage, shows the widened esplanade as well as a glimpse of Flag Court, the garden and tennis court. jgc_12_041

2018: The final image of a sequence (in chronological order, jgc_12_039, 031, 040, 053, 044 and 041) charting the development of this section of Hove beach.

In his notes, James Gray called this 1930 picture ‘The evolution of Medina Esplanade’. The Medina Esplanade, the second phase of the building of Hove Esplanade, took the road west to Flag Court, just visible on the left in the James Gray image. That house was demolished in 1937. The replacement block of flats there today, also named Flag Court, was built in 1958. Beyond it, to the east, Courtenay Gate apartments were built in 1934. Easily recognisable is the twin square-towered yellow-brick building of King’s House, built in the 1870s, at the junction of Grand Avenue and Kingsway. The fine red-brick buildings of King’s Gardens still stand. Further east, Kingsway is now dominated by high-rise flats. The grey dome on King’s Lawns was a temporary structure for the 2018 Brighton Festival and the tall tower is the i-360 viewing platform. (Photographer: David Sears)
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1913
2018

James Gray: After the completion of Medina Esplanade earlier in the century, the sea made serious inroads along the stretch immediately to the east. An extension to the sea wall became necessary but it was not until the years 1924-1925 that the work of continuing this to a point opposite Fourth Avenue was carried out.  jgc_12_042

2018:  The east- and south-facing façades of Albemarle Mansions at No 1 Medina Terrace remain largely unchanged and are currently in excellent repair. The promenade has been widened and strengthened and now carries a road and bicycle track.

The garden walls and railings to the right remain in place although green boards have been added behind the railings to give some privacy for the owners. Medina House, visible in the original image, jutting out to the left onto the promenade, is now hidden by the flats of Spa Court, built on the same building line. (Photographer: David Sears)
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1924
2018

James Gray: Preparatory work for the construction of the new sea wall in progress, opposite the gardens of Courtney Terrace. The work lasted for more than 12 months. jgc_12_043

2018: The modern image shows the completed sea wall and the profound effect it has had on the contours of the shingle beach which now drops sharply away to the sea. This is one of the few locations where it is possible to stand on the beach and actually see over the sea wall. In the background is the impressive east-facing façade of Medina Terrace and on the far right, Courtenay Terrace (which has changed its spelling but not its architecture.)

The modern skyline shows the irregular outlines of flats further down King’s Esplanade and a crane hovering over a building site next to what was The Alibi pub on Kingsway. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1930
2018

James Gray: The same area after the sea wall had been extended eastwards. On the left can be seen Flag Court, the house mentioned on the previous page. Built in 1918 it had a short life, being demolished in 1937/1938, since when the site has been vacant. jgc_12_044

2018: The fifth of six images (in chronological order, 12_039, 031, 040, 053, 044 and 041) showing, on the left,  the original Flag Court, built 1918-19 and demolished in 1937. Courtenay Gate was not built until 1934. The replacement Flag Court was built in 1958

Yellow-brick King’s House, built in the 1870s at the junction of Grand Avenue and Kingsway, can be seen in both images, as can some of the decorative pillars along the front which have been retained. Beach huts along the front were built from 1930 onwards to replace bathing machines and tents. In 2018 the little huts are regarded as valuable properties in their own right.  The grey dome is a temporary structure for the 2018 Brighton Festival. (Photographer: David Sears)
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1925-30
2018

James Gray: Not a very clear photograph from the air which, however, shows how the protective sea wall was built up in stages. The main portion, fronting Brunswick Lawns goes right back to the 1880s. Then, in 1924/5 the large area in the foreground was tackled and completed, not without some difficulties, leaving a gap to be closed some years later. The contrast between the public Brunswick Lawns and the private lawns of the West Brighton Estate Company stands out clearly. From what clues exist the period would seem to be between 1925 and 1930. jgc_12_047

2018: The James Gray aerial shot of the evolving seafront of Hove shows how much has changed next to the sea and how little has changed on the north side of Kingsway. King’s Esplanade House has been demolished and replaced with the King Alfred Centre. Medina Terrace is still part of the modern landscape.  Flag Court house has been replaced with Flag Court flats, flanked by Courtenay Terrace and Courtenay Gate, and the private lawns have vanished, merged with Hove Lawns.  Today’s sea wall stands about 2m above the shingle, which in turn shelves sharply away to the sea. Even at high tide in a storm, the sea does not come as close to the promenade as it used to.  (Photographer: David Sears)

1920
2018

James Gray: The Hove Reggata of 1920. jgc_12_065

2018: The James Gray picture shows how enormously popular the annual Hove Regatta was in its heyday, before being merged with Brighton Regatta in the mid 1920s. Local schools used to give pupils a half day holiday for the Regatta because so many would skip school, permitted or not!

The  picture of Hove seafront in 1920 is hard to replicate without access to a boat. On the left (west) is the pleasingly ornate block of St Aubyn’s Mansions, once thought to be at risk but now safely restored and greatly valued. Hove Baths (or Medina Baths) carry the useful sign ‘Swimming Taught’. Thebaths were demolished and replaced by Bath Court flats after the King Alfred Centre was built. Further to the right is Medina House, with the triangular roof gable, a Turkish Bath for Ladies, neglected for many years and demolished in 2018 but being replaced by a building with a similar roofline.. On the far right (east) is the rear of Medina Terrace. The buildings behind, on Kingsway, are largely unchanged. (Photogpraher: David Sears)
 
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1907
2018

James Gray: These photographs (and following), dating from about 1907, show the Esplanade, looking east and west. Both show the large single house, known as Kings Esplanade House, which was demolished in 1938, prior to the building of the King Alfred.. jgc_12_066 

2018: The view along the promenade to the east is now obscured by the rear extension of the King Alfred Centre, just seen on the left of the modern image on. The distinctive green dome of what is now The Alibi public house (currently undergoing redevelopment) is just visible behind the yellow brick wall, and St Aubyn’s Mansions stands in good order in the centre. New blocks of flats have replaced Hove Baths, as shown in images jgc_12 091-093 and jgc_12_ 097-098. Walking, and now cycling, along the promenade remain popular on  this fine but cold day in February 2018. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1907
2018

James Gray:These photographs (and previous), dating from about 1907, show the Esplanade, looking east and west. Both show the large single house, known as Kings Esplanade House, which was demolished in 1938, prior to the building of the King Alfred. On the extreme right can be seen Sussex Cottage which remained here until the middle of the 1920s. jgc_12_067 

2018: The building most easily identifiable in this image and the following one is Medina House, built in 1894 as a Ladies’ Turkish Bath, shown here behind the first lamp post.

Hove Baths, on the left, were demolished to make way for two blocks of flats.  In 2018 the King Alfred complex is visible in the distance andt he building to the right of Medina House now houses Marrocco’s (formerly Forte’s), famous for Italian ice creams and seafood. Medina House, despite being listed and certainly of architectural interest, is in poor repair and with an uncertain future after years’ of failed planning applications, vandalism and neglect. Shortly after this photograph was taken it was demolished. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1909
2018

James Gray:The late Edwardian scene on Kings Esplanade, sometimes called Medina Esplanade. Taken about 1909, it shows the Hove Baths, now demolished, an impressive line of gas lamps and the neat back entrance, through gardens, to the large houses in Victoria Terrace. jgc_12_068 

2018: As in the previous image, the only building easily identifiable in this image is that of Medina House built in 1894 as a Ladies’ Turkish Bath, shown here in the centre of the photograph. Hove Baths to the left were demolished to make way for two blocks of flats on the land this side of St Aubyn’s Mansions. The King Alfred complex is visible in the distance. The building to the immediate right of Medina House now houses Marrocco’s (formerly Forte’s), famous for Italian ice cream and seafood. On the far right, the gardens to the rear of Victoria Terrace which once led down to the sea now provide garages and parking space for the flats in Spa Court. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1913
2018
James Gray:  No comment. jgc_12_070
 
2018: Hove Beach, despite the unyielding pebbles, remains a popular place to laze and enjoy the sunshine.  Few would now visit the beach dressed in long dark gowns, suits, blazers, ties or school caps like these Edwardians. Deckchairs are however still for hire.
King’s Esplanade House, in the background of the James Gray picture, served as a café before being demolished to make way for the King Alfred Centre, the rear extension of which now dominates King’s Esplanade. St Aubyn’s Mansions are now brightly painted in yellow and white. Beyond them are the newer blocks of Bath, Benham and Spa Court flats and the elegant 1934 appartment block, Courtenay Gate. (Photographer: David Sears)

 

 

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1928-9
2018

James Gray: Looking east along the Esplanade, about 1928 or 1929. This area is little changed though the lamp posts have been replaced and the large café building has gone. This was known as Kings Esplanade House and stood by itself on the large island site where the Kings Alfred is now. The house was demolished in 1939 during preparatory work for the King Alfred. jgc_12_074

2018: This view of the Esplanade is now dominated by the untidy rear extension to the King Alfred Centre, built partly on the site of Kings Esplanade Hotel, shown on the left (west) of the original image. Behind it is the fine yellow and white façade of St Aubyn’s Mansions, now fully restored. Beyond it, to the right (east), the old Hove bath houses have been demolished and replaced with 3 new blocks of flats – Bath Court, Benham Court and Spa Court. Medina House, once a fine Turkish bath for women, has just been demolished (2018) after years of neglect. In the far distance, blocks of high-rise flats can now be seen on the northern side of Kingsway. (Photographer: David Sears)

Unknown
2018

 James Gray: Soon after the Medina Esplanade was constructed, the (SeaWater) Baths were erected. jgc_12_083

2018: The Medina Esplanade development relied on the Medina Baths and a steam laundry which also occupied part of the premises to generate income to offset some of the cost of the construction work. They officially opened on 13 September 1894, with a 93ft 6ins by 30ft pool for men and a smaller ladies pool measuring 65ft by 33 ft.

The temperature was kept at 70˚F (21˚C) and the pools were filled with seawater, which passed through an enormous charcoal filtering process and was changed daily. The James Gray postcard here, entitled ‘Hove Sea Water Swimming Baths’ shows the men’s bath. The pillars seen round the pool were made of wood. The baths were popular and in regular use until WWII. After the war, the King Alfred pool replaced the old baths which were used as industrial units until they were demolished in the late 1970s. On the site today is a block of flats built in 1982, called Bath Court. (Photographer: David Sears)
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1896
2018

James Gray: Soon after the Medina Esplanade was constructed, the (SeaWater) Baths were erected. An early view of the exterior, in 1896.  jgc_12_084

2018: The Victorian baths have gone, replaced on this stretch of King’s Esplanade (formerly Medina Esplanade) by a block of 1980s flats called Bath Court. Bath Court was built as part of a large-scale redevelopment in 1979-1983 between Sussex Road and Medina Terrace which resulted in three new blocks of flats: Bath Court, and to the east, Benham Court and Spa Court.  (Photographer: David Sears)

 
1973
2018

James Gray: Three photographs of the old Hove Baths, erected in 1893. They were in use until 1938, when the King Alfred building was constructed to replace them. After the 1939-45 war they were adapted for industrial use. When photographed on 11 February 1973, they were standing empty, forming part of a large site “ripe for redevelopment”. The building was demolished in 1976. This is a view up Sussex Road, showing the side of the baths.  The baths on Medina Esplanade started out in 1893 as the Hove Baths and Laundry Company, continuing until 1915 when the business was wound up with the London City and Westminster Bank taking over the mortgage. The fabric of the swimming bath was eventually replaced by Bath Court. jgc_12_091

2018: Hove Baths were demolished as part of the redevelopment in 1979-1983 of the area between Kings Esplanade and Kingsway to give three new blocks of flats, Bath Court here, Benham Court and Spa Court, to the east. The small cottages opposite Bath Court survived and are now freshly painted and in good repair. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1973
2018

James Gray: Views of the baths, looking east and west, and showing in this view, the main entrance and administrative offices.  jgc_12_092

2018: Today the only remaining building on this stretch of Kings Esplanade, formerly Medina Esplanade, is Medina House, seen here just to the east of Bath Court, the block of flats in the foreground. Beyond Medina House are the other two blocks of flats built as part of the redevelopment in 1979-1983 of the area between Kings Esplanade and Kingsway, Benham Court and Spa Court. (Photographer: David Sears)

 
1973
2018

James Gray: Views of the baths, looking west.  jgc_12_093

2018:  Benham Court, the block of flats in the foreground here, was built some distance from the site of the old baths as part of the redevelopment of the area in the 1980s. The large Victorian building in the distance is St Aubyns Mansions, built in 1894. In the 1970s its future was in doubt but it is now renovated and its flats are luxury properties.  (Photographer: David Sears)

1964
2018

James Gray: For more than 100 years long gardens ran from the houses of Victoria Terrace towards the sea. In 1964 these gardens were bought and a block of luxury flats, called Benham Court after the developer, was built on the site. Additional Information: Victoria Terrace.  jgc_12_094

2018: The long gardens running down to the sea from Victoria Terrace have now vanished beneath two blocks of flats. Spa Court, seen in this 2018 image, stands on the east side and Benham Court is out of shot, on the west of the site.
A rear view of Albemarle Mansions, still unchanged today, can be seen on the far right of the 1964 and the 2018 pictures but the wide view of the back of Victoria Terrace in the 1964 image can now only be glimpsed in part from King’s Esplanade. (Photographer: David Sears)

1964
2018

James Gray: For more than 100 years, long gardens ran from the houses of Victoria Terrace towards the sea. In 1964 these gardens were bought and a block of luxury flats, called Benham Court after the developer, was built on the site. Note the two low houses in the centre. These were the oldest houses and had a front garden over which was later built ugly false fronts. Date of photograph – 6 September 1964. jgc_12_095

2018: The original view, seen from the future site of Benham Court looking north-west, is remarkably unchanged in the modern image.

The gardens have been replaced by a car park and garages but the skyline remains the same. In both photographs the small white-painted cottages in the twitten known as Victoria Cottages, part of the Cliftonville Conservation area, can be seen. The twitten runs north-south from  from the Neptune pub on Kingsway down to King’s Esplanade. The cottages were built in 1830 as ‘small tenements’ in multiple occupation and the twitten at one point had around 260 inhabitants; the number now is probably one-tenth of that. Living there would be beyond the reach of a poor fisherman today. A modernised two-bedroom cottage in 2018 cost £400,000. (Photographer: David Sears)
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1976
2018

James Gray: Although these photographs also show the old Hove Baths, the focal point is the block of flats, known as St. Aubyns Mansions. Built about 1900, this consisted of eight very large flats, which went right through from front to rear. The photographs in this and the following one were taken on 11 February 1973, when the flats were empty and their future uncertain. Three years later the block is still there, redecorated but empty.  jgc_12_096

2018: St Aubyns is now fully renovated and its flats are desirable properties again. (Photographer: David Sears)

 
1973
2018

James Gray: See caption for jgc_12_096 above.  jgc_12_097

2018:  St Aubyns Mansions, built in 1899, has been renovated and there are blue plaques at the entrance to mark two famous occupants: Dame Clara Butt, the contralto singer, and Vesta Tilly, the male impersonator and music hall entertainer. To the right of St Aubyns Mansions, Hove Baths have been demolished and replaced with Bath Court flats. (Photographer: David Sears)

c 1945
2018

James Gray: This photograph, taken from the air, shows the flats, the King Alfred and the RNVR Station, and seems to have been taken after the end of the 1939-45 War – note the static water tank on the empty building site. jgc_12_098

2018: The aerial photograph shows how neat the King Alfred Centre looked originally, with no rear extension and neat ramps leading to the underground car park. In the 2018 picture the old baths adjoining St Aubyns flats have been replaced by Bath Court flats and a black hoarding screens the rubble on the former site of Medina House, a Victorian Turkish bathhouse which was demolished in early 2018. (Photographer: David Sears)

c 1930
2018

James Gray: View of the RNVR Battery looking across Kingsway to the Coastguard Cottages, at about the same period (as jgc_12_103 on Kingsway (6) page). Note the building of the original Hove College lying back from Kingsway on the west side of Hove Street. Additional Information: Note the boys, possibly from the college, fencing. jgc_12_104

2018: This image of the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve Battery, looking north from King’s Esplanade, is easy to locate – although much in the background has changed. On the far left, on the western side of Hove Street, Cliff House which housed Hove College, was demolished and replaced by the impressive mass of Viceroy Lodge.

The Coastguard Cottages suffered the same fate, to make way for the vaguely art deco Lancaster Court flats surrounding the Enterprise Car & Van Rental business. The Battery buildings have all been demolished and the site used as a car park surrounded, for no obvious reason, by dilapidated hoardings. Only the surrounding wall remains intact. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1928
2018

James Gray: A view of King’s Esplanade and the Battery in 1928. The enclosed guns look like 12 pounders, while to the left is a white searchlight and above it some form of range finder. The waste ground beyond the Battery House was then used for supplying beach stones to builders merchants for ballast. Note the old gas lamps then still in use. jgc_12_108

2018: The 1928 image, looking north-east from the end of Hove Street South shows the guns of the RNVR Battery in their wooden sheds with barrels pointing over the narrow esplanade toward France. Given that there were regular firing drills, it is hardly surprising that some locals expressed concerns over the effects on tourism.

The sign offering ‘daily mixed bathing’ in ‘tepid sea water’ does not sound that attractive either! In the background to the right are the gravel pits which were excavated for the foundations of the King Alfred Centre in the late 1930s. King’s Esplanade House on the far right was demolished at the same time. New buildings on Kingsway include Essex House, replacing Dial House, and The Mirage on the corner of Vallance Gardens. (Photographer: David Sears) 
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1968
2018

 James Gray: This view westwards 40 years later, on 21 July 1968, with guns long since gone and the house empty. jgc_12_109

2018: The 1968 image looks north-east across the site of the RNVR Battery, just after it closed. Battery House stands in the foreground. Fifty years later the site remains undeveloped and is in daily use as a temporary car park.

Until a decision is made on this and on the adjacent slowly decaying King Alfred Centre, nothing will happen. In the modern image, Viceroy Lodge dominates the background, together with other modern blocks further west on Kingsway. As in many places, the foreground is cluttered with black waste and recycling bins. Behind these, the original wall is just visible. (Photographer: David Sears)

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1965
2018

James Gray: Two photographs which show the RNVR battery in its closing years. This view was taken in December 1965, shows the empty parade ground, overlooked by Lancaster Court flats, and a sight of the old (1897) Hove Lodge Mansions. jgc_12_112

2018:  Little has changed despite more than 50 years of attempted development of this site. The apartment block on the left is Viceroy Lodge, on the corner of Hove Street and Kingsway, with Hove Lodge Mansions just visible beyond. Lancaster Court flats are now painted cream and aquamarine. The empty site of the RNVR battery, surrounded by shabby billboards, has been used as a car park for many years. (Photographer: David Sears)

1960
2018

James Gray: Two photographs which show the RNVR battery in its closing years. This photograph, dating from early in 1960, calls for little comment, except for the view of the old Battery House at the extreme left. jgc_12_113

2018: The RNVR Battery House has been demolished and the whole area awaits redevelopment. The shelter on the promenade, just visible in jgc_12_109, has been moved. The view of St Aubyns Mansions is now obscured by the rearward extension of the King Alfred Centre.

New high-level lights and security cameras adorn the promenade. Parked cars, white vans and black waste bins clutter the roadsides. In the background, a crane hovers over the redevelopment of The Alibi pub site. A cycle track occupies part of the promenade. On the beach there is now a lifeguard for swimmers prepared to brave the waves. (Photographer: David Sears)

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Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
This website has been prepared by the Regency Society of Brighton and Hove. All historic maps are provided with kind permission of the National Library of Scotland (https://www.nls.uk/) regencysociety.org

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