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Based on the Regency Society James Gray Collection
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ROTTINGDEAN THE CLIFFS AND BEACH

Rottingdean and Ovingdean Seafront

Neighbourhood:
Rottingdean, Ovingdean and Saltdean
c1910
c1910
2019

James Gray: These photographs [see also jgc_32_002] show the extent of the erosion which has since taken place. jgc_32_001

James Gray: The beach and bathing machines. jgc_32_015

2019: This photograph was taken in March, just east of Rottingdean Gap. The major difference between the 1910 and 2019 images, other than the lack of bathing huts, is the addition of the Undercliff Walk at the base of the cliffs. Built to protect the coastline, the route of the walk runs between Brighton Marina and Saltdean. It was mostly built between 1930 and 1933, at a cost of £360,000. The final extension to Saltdean was added in 1935, making it 3.35 miles (5.34 km) long.

Erosion, however, cannot be stopped and at various points along the path there are shingle beds at the side of the cliff and steel nets overhead to catch the occasional descending flints and lumps of chalk. The dramatic sea was provided courtesy of Storm Freya. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)
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Pre 1914
2019
c1910

James Gray: Four postcards of Rottingdean [jgc_32_128, 129, 130 and 131] before its incorporation with Brighton on 1 April 1928. Additional Information: Rottingdean showing recent landslip. jgc_32_130

James Gray: [See caption for jgc_32_001 above.] jgc_32_002

2019: This area is known as Rottingdean Gap, where a natural valley in the cliffs gives access to the village. The original photograph was taken from a location which has long since crumbled away. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Pre 1914-18
2019

James Gray: All four photographs [jgc_32_003, 004, 005 and 006] date from before incorporation with Brighton in 1928. jgc_32_003

2019: The same view looking west. Erosion, fencing and modern health and safety considerations make it impossible to stand in exactly the same viewpoint as the original image. The view towards Rottingdean Gap has been totally obscured by the St Margaret’s Flats (built in 1938) and then by Highcliff Court, which was added in 1967. Brighton Marina can be seen on the horizon. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1920
2019

James Gray: All four photographs [jgc_32_003, 004, 005 and 006] date from before incorporation with Brighton in 1928. jgc_32_004

2019: The old solid stone breakwaters have been replaced by loose stone constructions and part of the Undercliff Walk (as shown in jgc_32_001) is visible at the base of the cliffs. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Pre 1914-18
2019

James Gray: All four photographs [jgc_32_003, 004, 005 and 006] date from before incorporation with Brighton in 1928. jgc_32_005

2019: All the cliff top buildings have been replaced by blocks of flats built piecemeal over the last 100 years. The slipway is no longer the only access to the beach – the whole seafront is now accessible from the undercliff walk running between Brighton Marina and Saltdean. A metal detectorist can be seen hunting for buried treasures on the seashore. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Pre 1914-18
2019
2019

James Gray: All four photographs [jgc_32_003, 004, 005 and 006] date from before incorporation with Brighton in 1928. View showing the steps from the beach to the cliff top. jgc_32_006

2019: Rottingdean Terraces were given a performing arts stage in 2011 and now regularly host concerts and performances. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1900-14
2019
c1900

James Gray: No comment. jgc_32_028

2019: The structure in the centre of the original image is Rottingdean Pier, the landing stage and terminus for the Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway. The breakwater in the centre of the modern photograph now stands in its place. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

James Gray: Rottingdean Pier, with passengers boarding the sea-going car bound for the Banjo groyne, Brighton, about 1900. The steel pier was about 100 yards long; underneath was the plant for generating the electric motive power of the Tramroad. jgc_32_044

 

1930s
2019

James Gray: Two photographs [jgc_32_032 and 033] of the 1930s showing, in this view, the construction of the Undercliff garden. jgc_32_033

2019: The hotel on this site was called the King of Prussia Inn before being renamed The White Horse. The original building was demolished and replaced in the 1930s. The brickwork of the hotel has been rendered over and colourwashed since then. In the background left of Gray’s image can be seen the coast road towards Brighton and – under construction – the new Art Deco style block of flats. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1900
c1900
Unknown
2019

James Gray: These views of the Rottingdean end of the Marine Electric Railway were probably all taken at about the turn of the century. jgc_32_038

James Gray: This photograph shows the line of poles carrying the overhead wire, so probably the railway was then still in operation. The remains of the Pier were removed soon after the railway closed down in 1901. Later erosion caused the demolition of the large house near the cliff edge, which had been rendered unsafe. jgc_32_039

James Gray: This view shows the pier at Rottingdean. jgc_06_171

2019: The view in March 2019. The terminus of the electric railway was built at the south end of Rottingdean Gap where the stone breakwater stands today. The area has now been much altered by the construction of the Undercliff Walk (1931-1935) and the Rottingdean Terraces (1930s). (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1900
2019

James Gray: Another view [of Rottingdean Pier]. jgc_32_040

2019: The pier remained in place until around 1910. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1900-12
2019

James Gray: No comment. Additional Information: Bird’s eye view of Rottingdean. jgc _32_041

2019: The same view looking westward from just off the coast road heading east towards Saltdean today. The windmill remains but most of the other buildings have either fallen into the sea or been replaced by later developments. Notice the extensive protection at the cliff edge now in place. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1900-12
2019

James Gray: No comment. Additional Information: Pier and submarine rail. jgc_32_042

2019: The pier stood where the loose stone breakwater stands in the centre of this photograph. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

c1902
2019

James Gray: I cannot say with any conviction whether this photograph was taken before or after the brief active life of the tramway (1896-1901). There is no sign of the generator or of the overhead wires, and the condition of the rails suggests that they had been in position for some time, so I think it dates from soon after the closure in 1901. jgc_32_046

2019: The structure in the centre of the original image is the landing stage for Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway which ran along the shore from Paston Place to Rottingdean. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

 

Date Unknown
2019

James Gray: Period unknown. Could be just before the pier came into use, or just after the line closed down. jgc_32_048

2019: There is no obvious trace of the landing stage on the beach today.  (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

Date Unknown
2019

James Gray: Five interesting photos [jgc_32_049 to 053, all on the Brighton East Seafront: images on the beach (B) page] during the short life of the Railroad, in four of which passengers are seen. A pity they are so indistinct as more clarity would have been revealed the mechanics of the operation. jgc_32_052

2019: The “Daddy Long Legs” or more correctly Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway ran along the shore from Paston Place to Rottingdean and was the brainchild of Magnus Volk. Construction took two years from 1894 to 1896 and the railway officially opened 28 November 1896, but it was nearly destroyed by a storm the night of 4 December. Volk immediately set to rebuilding the railway and it reopened in July 1897. Unfortunately, in 1900, groynes built near the railway were found to have led to underwater erosion under the sleepers and the railway was closed for two months while this was repaired. Immediately afterward, the council decided to build a beach protection barrier, which would have required Volk to divert his line around the barrier. Not having sufficient funds to do so, Volk had to close the railway. It is sometimes possible to see remnants of the old trackway at low tide and (ironically) the remains of the original sea defences that caused it to be closed in the first place…  (Photographer: Ron Fitton)  

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Date Unknown
2019

James Gray: Five interesting photos [jgc_32_049 to 053] during the short life of the Railroad, in four of which passengers are seen. A pity they are so indistinct as more clarity would have been revealed the mechanics of the operation. jgc_32_053

2019: See jgc_32_052 above.  (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1910
2019

James Gray: More photographs of the pier at the end of the Marine Electric Railway. jgc_32_054

2019: The landing stage for the electric railway stood where the stone breakwater stands today. The area known as Rottingdean Gap was further altered by the building of the Undercliff Walk and the Rottingdean Terraces in the 1930s. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1900-10
c1900
2019

James Gray: More photographs [see also jgc_32_054] of the pier at the end of the Marine Electric Railway. Period unknown, but note the man and the dog which appear in other cliff-top views – probably between 1900-1910. jgc_32_055

James Gray: Yet another of the many photographs of the pier at Rottingdean. It would be idle to speculate about the date of this, except that it would be about 1900. jgc_32_057

2019: The landing stage for the railway stood where the stone breakwater stands today. See also jgc_32_059 below. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1900s
2019

James Gray: Beach scenes of the 1900s [see also jgc_32_059 below], giving a good view of the steps. Additional Information: Several fully dressed people on the beach, including a nanny and her ward. jgc_32_058

2019: Although the steps and slope remain, the cliffs have been reinforced to prevent erosion and part of the beach has been replaced by the Undercliff Walk. The couple in the bottom right of the James Gray image are alleged to be Rudyard Kipling, who lived in Rottingdean, and his aunt, Georgiana Burne-Jones. The prominent building in the 2019 image is The White Horse Hotel. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1900s
2019

James Gray: Beach scenes of the 1900s [see also jgc_32_058 above], giving a good view of the steps. jgc_32_059

2019: The structure in the centre of the James Gray image is the landing stage for the Daddy Long Legs which stood on the site of the loose stone breakwater seen in the centre of the modern image. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1920s
2019

James Gray: Two photographs [see also jgc_32_060] dating from the 1920s, probably before incorporation, when this was little more than a Sussex village. jgc_32_061

2019: Molly’s café, serving excellent scones among other good things, now occupies the space where the beach huts once stood and the skyline is today dominated by Highcliff Court, dating from 1967. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1905
2019

James Gray: A view of 1905 and a comparison with the previous two photographs [see jgc_32_060 and jgc_32_061 above] showing the extent of the erosion by the sea in a period of about 20 years. jgc_32_062

2019: The buildings in the 1905 photograph have been replaced by Highcliff Court (see also jgc_32_061 above). (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

1890s
2019

James Gray: No comment.Additional Information: Be-hatted girls playing on beach.  jgc_32_065

2019: A view today of the steps and slopes leading to High Street South, known as Manor Terrace in the 1890s. The buildings seen at the top of the cliff in the James Gray image have been replaced by two apartment blocks, St Margaret’s built in 1938 (St Margaret of Antioch is the name of the Rottingdean parish church) and Highcliff Court added in 1967. The Undercliff Walk has replaced the top part of the beach. See also jgc_32_059 above. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

c1900
2019

James Gray: These photographs [see also jgc_32_067 below] of about 1900 show the rather flimsy structure which led to the Rottingdean terminus of the Marine Electric Railway. jgc_32_066

2019: The same view on a blustery day in March 2019. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

c1900
2019

James Gray: [See caption for jgc_32_066 above.] jgc_32_067

2019: Looking north towards Rottingdean Gap, the skyline is dominated by St Margaret’s and Highcliff Court on the right (see also jgc_32_065 above) and The White Horse Hotel built in the 1930s in the centre. The pier seen in the James Gray image was the landing stage for the Daddy Long Legs or, more correctly, the Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway and was demolished in about 1910. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1910
2019

James Gray: These three photographs [jgc_32_068, 069 and 070] all show glimpses of the short-lived electric railway which ran from Paston Place to Rottingdean, and they all centre around Ovingdean Pier. This image dates from about 1910 and also shows the old coast road at Ovingdean Gap. jgc_32_068

2019: Ovingdean Pier was actually the midway point for the Daddy Long Legs (or more correctly Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway) which ran along the shore from Paston Place to Rottingdean until it closed 1901. The car ‘Pioneer’ languished at the end of Ovingdean Pier, before both were broken up and sold for scrap around 1910. This view looking east shows the approximate position of the former Pier. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

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c1902
2019

James Gray: The Sea Going Car, abandoned at the end of the rapidly decaying Ovingdean Gap Station, about 1902. The over-the-sea railway had only a short life, being in use from 1896-1901. jgc_32_069

2019: The same view as in jgc_32_068 looking west. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1903
2019

James Gray: This view along the base of the cliffs from Rottingdean was taken in 1903 and shows the pier at Ovingdean with what was left of the Car itself. Note also the large house on the cliff which was later a victim of serious erosion by the sea at this point. jgc_32_070

2019: The Daddy Long Legs had a stop at Ovingdean so the little pier seen in this James Gray view looking west from Rottingdean was built to allow passengers to embark and disembark there. As with Rottingdean, the pier stood opposite a valley in the cliffs giving access to the beach – Ovingdean Gap.

The Car mentioned by Gray was the carriage which carried passengers above the waves. It was left to rust away for years after the railway closed. The houses in the original picture fell into the sea as the cliff crumbled and have not been replaced as the cliff edge is too unstable. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)
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1908-10
2020

James Gray:  The derelict Daddy Long Legs car moored at the end of the Ovingdean Pier, where it was kept for several years after the line closed down. Finally in 1910 it was sold for scrap, and no doubt the photograph was taken a year or two before then. Note the old narrow coast road. jgc_33_022

2020: Ovingdean Pier was actually the midway point for the Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway. From this angle today there is no visible trace of the railway car or the pier structure. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1929-30
2019

James Gray: View of the beach and steps. Period not known, probably about 1929 or 1930. jgc_32_152

2019: Known as Rottingdean Gap, this area has been substantially altered by the building of the Undercliff Walk (1930-33), the Rottingdean Terraces (1934), St Margarets Flats (1938) and finally Highcliff Court in 1967. See also jgc_32_006 above. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1900
2019

James Gray: Above is a view of Cliff Terrace, as it was about 1900. In those days there was plenty of room for a walk along the cliff top. jgc_32_154

2019: The buildings in the 1938 photograph were replaced by Highcliff Court in 1967. Although you can still access part of the road previously known as Cliff Terrace, in an area now nicknamed The Quarterdeck, it is no longer a public thoroughfare. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1928
2019

James Gray: [On the right is] the same area in 1928, the year when the village became incorporated with Brighton. Coast erosion had by then eliminated the cliff top walk. jgc_32_155

2019:  James Gray was probably comparing the view here with the earlier one in jgc_32_154 above. Further erosion and the erection of safety fencing makes it impossible to replicate the exact original spot. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1934
2019

James Gray: Conversion of the cliff into gardens in progress. This was done in conjunction with the construction of the Undercliff Walk. jgc_32_156

2019: The Undercliff Walk was completed by 1933 and the gardens (now known as Rottingdean Terraces) were completed in 1934. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1938
2019

James Gray: The view after the completion of the gardens and after the erection of St Margaret’s Flats on the site of three old houses. Note that the house Highcliffe and adjoining café appear in all four photographs. [See also jgc 32_154, 155 and 156.]  jgc_32_157 

2019: The remaining small buildings on the Cliff Terrace were demolished in 1967 to make way for Highcliff Court. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Mid 1930s
2019

James Gray: No comment. jgc_32_158

2019: See caption for jgc_32_155 above. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

MId 1930s
2019

James Gray: No comment. jgc_32_159

2019: The buildings to the west of the gardens (now Rottingdean Terraces) were replaced by St Margarets Flats and Highcliff Court. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Mid 1930s
2019

James Gray: No comment. jgc_32_160

2019: Other than the absence of the railings on the seaward side of the Undercliff Walk (plus Brighton Marina in the far distance) the view does not look substantially different from this angle in June 2019. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

Mid 1930s
2019

James Gray: No comment. jgc_32_161

2019: Further erosion plus the erection of fencing and various housing developments makes it impossible to photograph the location from the exact original spot. The original position would have put Wardell’s photographer somewhat closer to Rottingdean Gap than is now possible. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1930s
2019

James Gray: Four stages [see also jgc_32_163, 164 and 165] showing the progress of this enterprise during the 1930s. Those above show the layout and development of the Rottingdean bathing pool. jgc_32_162

2019: The swimming pool was finally opened by the mayor, Edward Denne, on July 29th 1935. A seawater pool measuring 100 feet by 35 feet, it offered little in the way of facilities other than the grand position. It was closed down due to storm damage in 1990. The site was derelict until 1995, when the pool was concreted over as part of major coastal protection works.

Part of the site is now occupied by the Connor’s Court multi-use games area which was opened in October 2014. The court was named for Connor Saunders, a local and popular 19 year-old who was tragically killed in a senseless act of violence in Rottingdean in 2012. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)
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1930s
2019

James Gray: This and the next view show the extension of the Undercliff Walk beyond Rottingdean to the eastern boundary of Brighton and Saltdean. jgc_32_164

2019: Taken at low tide rather than at high tide, this modern photograph clearly illustrates the amount of development that has taken place all down the coast since the original one was taken. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1934
2019

James Gray: Two more views of the conversion of Rottingdean cliffs into gardens. This work was put in hand after the completion of the Undercliff Walk and at the time of the rebuilding of the White Horse Hotel. jgc_32_166

2019: The current photograph was taken from the area known as The Quarterdeck which is all that remains of the original Cliff Terrace. The Undercliff Walk was completed between 1930 and 1933 and the gardens now known as Rottingdean Terraces were completed in 1934.

Rebuilding of the White Horse pub was completed by 1935 and the building remains substantially unchanged since then. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)
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1934
2019

James Gray: See caption above. jgc_32_167

2019: This is the last of a series of images tracing the development of Rottingdean Gap. See also jgc_32_154 (1900), 155 (1928), 156 (1934 as is this image), 159 (mid 1930s) and 157 (1938). (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

1900
2019

James Gray: The cliffs beyond Rottingdean village. jgc_32_169

2019: The main difference to the view nowadays is the Undercliff Walk  which extends to the western end of Saltdean and was completed in 1935. (Photographer: Ron Fitton)

c1902
2019

James Gray: As with the previous photograph [see jgc_32_046 on the Brighton East Seafront: images on the beach (B) page], I cannot be sure of the year in which this was taken. There is no sign of the generator, no sign of overhead wires and the high tide conceals the rails, if in fact they were there. My guess is that the photograph dates from not long after the closure of the Tramway in 1901. jgc_32_047

2019: The structure in the centre of the James Gray image is the landing stage for what was known as Daddy Long Legs or more correctly Brighton and Rottingdean Seashore Electric Railway which ran along the shore from Paston Place. See jgc_ 32_050 on the Brighton East Seafront: images on the beach (B) page for further details. The current photograph shows where the Rottingdean end of the railway was located. In the distance on the left are buildings at Brighton Marina with Brighton beyond. (Photographer: Ron Fitton) 

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Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
This website has been prepared by the Regency Society of Brighton and Hove. All historic maps are provided with kind permission of the National Library of Scotland (https://www.nls.uk/) regencysociety.org

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