Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
Based on the Regency Society James Gray Collection
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JUNCTION OF NORTH STREET AND WEST STREET

North Street (Brighton) (1)

Around the Clock Tower

Neighbourhood:
Central Brighton, North Laine

This page contains views of the Clock Tower from all aspects as well as views of North Street in the immediate vicinity.

1851
1952
2018

James Gray: An impression of North Street, by R.H. Nibbs, between West Street and Upper Russell Street, 1851. Starting from the left: 71, G. Bull; (tall building in centre) 72, Hugh Snelling, Cheesemonger; 74 E. Hobden, Baker; 75, E. Chatfield, Baker; 76, E. Snelling, Greengrocer; 77, J. Streeter, Miller. jgc_21_001

The same block, a century later. None of the old buildings remain though Leesons building has some slight resemblance to its predecessor. Only the slope of the ground remains the same. Will 2052 show equally great changes?  jgc_21_ 002

2018: As James Gray points out, the area changed enormously between 1851 and 1951. It has changed greatly again by 2018. The zebra crossing of 1951 has been replaced by a pedestrianised area with integrated seating round the Clock Tower and the Victorian public toilets at the foot of the clock tower, seen on the extreme left of the 1951 picture, have been demolished. The buildings along North Street in jgc_21_002 are broadly the same but all the shopfronts are modern and none of the firms trading in the 1950s have survived. A Waterstones bookshop has engulfed Nos 71-74, No 75 is Leon, part of a fast food restaurant chain.  A branch of the Pret A Manger sandwich bar and takeaway shares Nos 77-78 with BS Social Care. No 79 is a branch of Vapestore, a concept which would have surprised cigarette smokers in 1951, and No 82, the corner premises where North Street now meets Churchill Square, instead of the demolished Upper Russell Street, is the Metro Bank.  (Photographer: Clare Hughes) 

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1875
2018

James Gray: Over the course of 25 years, the ramshackle buildings shown on the previous page had been replaced. Shortly before the date of this photograph North Street had been widened on the north side by the White Lion Hotel. The rounded corner building was demolished in 1926. jgc_21_003

2018:  The road layout is still roughly the same.

The old rounded building that housed ‘George Bull Grocer and Tea Dealer’ has been replaced and on the site today is a branch of Waterstones bookshop. Built in 1928 for the Montague Burton menswear chain by Harry Wilson, the company’s in-house architect, the Burton logo can still be seen at the top of the building on both the North Street and West Street facades. The shop to the left of the picture on North Street is now Itsu, a Japanese takeaway restaurant, and the buildings to the right of the picture going up North Street are mainly takeaway food establishments, including Leon and Pret A Manger. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1900
2018

James Gray: Clock tower and the narrow North Street. The Tower is here shown in its original form. The area of the Tower was extended by the provision of the conveniences in 1911. Having regard to traffic congestion in 1953, it would probably have been better to leave it as it was. In Queens Road can be seen the four buildings removed in 1920, to make way for the Regent Cinema. jgc_21_004

2018: The road layout remains basically the same although three sides of the Clock Tower are now surrounded by a pedestrian area. Modern buildings have replaced those on the left of the 1900 image and Boots occupies the equally modern building on the eastern corner of Queen’s Road and North Street. See also captions for 07_036 and 21_037. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

1954
2018

James Gray: A view of Leesons Store, at the top of the street, during the summer of 1954, shortly before the business was sold, and the shops cleared. So ended a business that had lasted for almost a century.   jgc_21_006

2018:  The Victorian building that housed Leesons in 1954 is still very much the same externally in 2018, apart from the lack of chimneys. It is currently leased to Metro Bank. The shop that can just be seen further down North Street is a  branch of Vapestore.  (Photographer: Clare Hughes) 

1954
2018

James Gray: The top of North Street, at the junction with Western Road, photographed on 22 July 1954. No traffic lights were then needed – only one car is visible. jgc_21_008

2018: The Art Deco building known as Imperial Arcade at the top of North Street at its junction with Western Road and Dyke Road was built in 1923-4 and remodelled in 1934. It resembles a ship’s prow and remains broadly unchanged. A mobile phone shop now occupies the prominent position facing east down North Street. The road layout is still the same although the houses in the distance along Western Road in the 1954 image were demolished in the 1960s to make way for the Churchill Square shopping centre. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

c1900
c1908
1912
1939
2018

James Gray: A particularly fine wide-angled photograph of the Clocktower, giving a good view down North Street and along Queen’s Road. Originally taken for a postcard, something of the clarity has been lost in the enlargement. The date is unknown, but it would be in the late 1890s or in 1900. The upstairs floors of the corner building were occupied as the White Lion Hotel. jgc_07_125

James Gray: 1908 or earlier, with a pavement and one convenience added. jgc_07_138

James Gray: With part of the Quadrant roadway used as a cab rank. Additional Information: Browne, Baker & Weston, Undertakers. jgc_07_136

James Gray: Here also the year of the photograph is in some doubt. The sandbagged base of the Clock Tower does not settle the issue. It could have been at the time of the Munich crisis, in 1938, but more likely a year later, at the outbreak of War. Note the White Lion Hotel, and the roof of the Regent ballroom. jgc_21_037

2018: The road layout remains largely unchanged although the buildings behind the Clock Tower have been demolished. The site is currently occupied by Boots. See also caption for jgc_07_036. (Photographer: Clare Hughes) 

1894
2018

 James Gray: View down the street in 1894, showing the ancient house squeezed in between Sopers and Bakers Cloth Hall. The Clock Tower was then but a few years old, having been erected in 1887. jgc_21_041

2018: The road layout remains very similar although the feel is entirely different. The Clock Tower still stands but the buildings in the left forefront of the original image have been replaced with modern shops and offices and what was the White Lion Hotel behind the Clock Tower is now another modern block occupied by Boots.

What was Bakers’ building on the right of the 1894 image, with a tower to rival the Clock Tower itself, was replaced in 1926 by the current building now occupied by Waterstones. This remains a busy junction with buses, cars and bicycles although not a horse-drawn carriage in sight in 2018! See also caption for jgc_07_036 below.  (Photographer: Clare Hughes)  

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1925
1934
2020

James Gray: Like those on the previous page, these three photographs [see also jgc_07_035 and 037 on the West Street (Central) page] show West Street as it was some 30 years ago. Taken in 1925 by the late Mr Harold Clunn, a trenchant critic of Brighton as it then was, they were intended by him to draw attention to parts of the town he loved so well, which were in need of improvement. This photograph not only emphasises the narrow West Street but also provides a good view of Bakers’ building, which preceded Burton’s. jgc_07_036

James Gray: View of the Clocktower and West Street from Queen’s Road. jgc_07_131

2020: The Clock Tower remains a central feature in Brighton. The Boots building on the eastern side of Queen’s Road replaced the ornate Regent Cinema in the 1970s and was remodelled in 1998. The cinema opened in 1921 and showed its last film in 1973. The Bakers’ building referred to by James Gray was occupied by J Baker & Son, tailors, until 1926 when it was replaced by the current building which was occupied until the 1990s by Burton, a leading men’s clothing and fashion retailers, whose embossed name can still be seen on the outside of the building. Dillons the booksellers moved in during 1996 and became Waterstones when the latter took over the former in 1998.  The shop on the east corner of North Street and West Street opposite Waterstones is currently occupied by Itsu, an Asian take-away fast food shop. St Paul’s Church can be seen at the southern end of West Street in all three photographs. (Photographer: Clare Hughes)

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1902
2018

James Gray: View of the street and Clock Tower in 1902 at the time of King Edward’s Coronation. Soper’s Corner had been rounded off in the previous year, 1901. jgc_21_044

2018: Whilst the buildings on the south side (right) of North Street retain some semblance of a century ago, the north side has been entirely redeveloped. Traffic rather than pedestrians is the main feature in 2018. See also caption for jgc_21_041 above. (Photographer: Alan Stratford)

1930
2018

James Gray: Looking down the narrow street almost as far as New Road. The only widening so far carried out is that in front of the Regent entrance. Traffic is still manually controlled. jgc_21_046

2018: The buildings on the south side (right hand side) of North Street remain largely unchanged. Those on the north side beyond the Clock Tower have gone with road widening and redevelopment. On that prominent corner site is now the Boots store. The junction of Queen’s Road, West Street, and North Street continues to be a busy route for buses, cars and pedestrians. See also caption for jgc_07_036 above. (Photographer: Alan Stratford)

1928
2018

James Gray: 30 May 1928. The street decorations during the Greater Brighton celebrations which marked the extension of the Borough boundaries. jgc_21_049

2018: See caption for jgc_21_046 above. (Photographer: Alan Stratford)

1971
2020

James Gray: My only reason for including this recent photograph of 1 May 1971 is to show the congestion caused by this bottleneck at the junction with Queen’s Road. It will record for prosperity how narrow North Street was at this spot. jgc_21_146

2020: Architecturally, the main difference between the 1971 and 2020 images is that the building on the right nearest the camera in 1971 has been demolished and replaced by a large branch of Boots just visible on the right of the more recent photograph. The road and right-hand pavement were widened at the same time so easing the bottleneck at the junction with Queen’s Road referred to by James Gray. The lack of traffic and pedestrians in the 2020 image is the result of the coronavirus pandemic raging throughout the world at the time which caused a lockdown to be introduced in the UK.  (Photographer: Mike Doodson)

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1905
c1913
c1917
1921

James Gray: 1/3. This photograph is the oldest of these three photographs (jgc_07_126, 127 and 128). jgc_07_126

James Gray: 2/3. This view probably dates from just before the 1914-18 War. jgc_07_127

James Gray: 3/3. Copied from a postcard, the postmark is given as 1917 though it may have been published a little before. jgc_07_128

James Gray: View of the Clocktower before the widening of North Street Quadrant. In North Street the roadway fronting the entrance to the Regent Cinema has yet to be set back. jgc_07_129

1931
1903
1903
1903
1903

James Gray: View of the Clocktower from West Street before the installation of traffic lights system. jgc_07_130

James Gray: Four photographs (jgc_07_132, 133, 134 and 135) of the Clocktower – three from within the narrow West Street – all dating from about 1903. Apart from the west corner of West Street, no buildings have gone, but the main contrast is the almost complete absence of traffic. jgc_07_132, jgc_07_133, jgc_07_134 and jgc_07_135

1888
1896
1960

James Gray: Here is the scene around the Clocktower on 28 June 1888, just before the unveiling. The Tower was erected by James Willing at a cost of £2,000, to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. Additional Information: Designed by John Johnson, the foundation stone was laid by Sir Arthur Otway on the 70th Birthday of James Willing, a local advertising contractor whose gift it was to the town. The gilt-copper sphere on the top was designed by Magnus Volk and controlled by landline from Greenwich Observatory. It rose hydraulically up the mast and fell on the hour, but it functioned only for a few years after complaints about the noise. Some efforts were made in 2005 to restart it but it didn’t last long before it failed again. jgc_07_124

James Gray: In 1896, nine years after it was erected. Still just a tower in the middle of three roads, with North Street Quadrant wider then than it is now, 70 years later. jgc_07_137

James Gray: These photographs (jgc_07_088 and jgc_07_089), showing the top of West Street east side, were taken about 1960. The Eight Bells public house, although not one of Brighton’s oldest inns, had been here for more than a century, but is now gone. The tall building facing into West Street was the White Lion Hotel, the ground floor being occupied by Barclays Bank. It had been reconstructed and set back in 1874, the date being inscribed on the pediment. The bank vacated its offices in 1957 but the building remained for another twenty years, being demolished in 1977 and replaced by the present Boots store. jgc_07_088

1930
2020

James Gray:  The narrow end of old Western Road in 1930. The south side of the road is little changed, although only the Home and Colonial Stores at No 30 is in the same occupation today. Additional Information: C Y Lyon –  Optician; Frank Eyeles – Shirts, Corsets. jgc_19_111 

2020: In 1930 the building with the domes atop was Soper’s Drapery Emporium at 77-83 North Street. In the 1940s it became Leeson’s drapers and house furnishers. It now houses a branch of the Metro Bank.

Note that the chimney has been removed at some stage. Nos 1 – 9 Western Road, seen in the 1930 image, were demolished in the late 1960s when Churchill Square was built. This has exposed Farm Yard, the cul-de-sac seen in the centre of the image, and Cranbourne Street to the south (right) of it. Western Road is much wider than in 1930. As a result, the shops on its northern side are not visible.  (Photographer: Jane Southern) 

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1970
2020

James Gray: A view at the end of Western Road, taken on 11 October 1970. Although the picture shows other buildings, such as the Central Free Church, its purpose was to record 1 and 2, North Street Quadrant. These buildings were about to be removed and were demolished in February 1971. jgc_19_153

2020: Home Sense, a retailer of homeware and gifts, dominates the 2005 development which replaced everything between Air Street and North Street Quadrant except The Quadrant public house.

The office block to the left of Home Sense, between Air Street and Queen Square, was built between 1985 and 1987. It replaced the Central Free Church which was closed in 1983, when the Brighthelm Centre, a community venue, was built in Church Street, and demolished in 1984. (Photographer: Jane Southern) 

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Historic and Contemporary Images of Brighton and Hove
This website has been prepared by the Regency Society of Brighton and Hove. All historic maps are provided with kind permission of the National Library of Scotland (https://www.nls.uk/) regencysociety.org

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